What is Venice Carnival and is it worth visiting?
/What is Venice Carnival and why is it celebrated
Venice Carnival began in 1162 to celebrate the Venice Republic’s victory over one of its enemies. The people of Venice gathered in Saint Mark’s Square (known as Piazza San Marco) to celebrate. Festivities continued for several centuries until it was outlawed in 1797 while Venice was under the rule of Francis II, the Holy Roman Emperor.
Venetians’ had been using masks to conceal their identities which was banned at the time, and they were using them to get away with petty crimes such as gambling and some other naughtier activities!
Moving forward to 1979, the Italian government decided to help Venice reconnect with its carnival history to rejuvenate the culture of Venice. The city’s tourism boomed and the Venice Carnival has grown over the years into one of the world’s biggest and most popular celebrations.
Credit: Unsplash.
Now Venice Carnival is a two-week event every February. People dress up in elaborate costumes and wander the streets and mingle as though these were their everyday clothes. You can join in and wear costumes all day or just for events. Many people don’t dress up but just enjoy walking around Venice having a Spritz and people watching.
There are lots of tours, parties and balls to go to. Some hugely expensive others starting around €26pp for a walking tour or €50pp for Venetian style drinks with light bites to eat. There is a wonderful atmosphere and Venice really becomes even more otherworldly during this time.
A bit like getting married you can spend an unlimited amount on this trip; there are beautiful 5-star hotels, expensive events to go to and you could have a costume made for you should you wish, prices normally start at around €500.
However, there is another way…
Credit: Unsplash.
How to visit Venice Carnival on a budget
Where to stay: There are many options to consider here and if you are on a budget I would book somewhere in the old Jewish quarter, Cannaregio. Obviously looking for accommodation is a different world now we have the likes of Airbnb and similar. There's so much choice.
Be careful to really read the descriptions of your accommodation properly. Spacious rooms are hard to find and sometimes you can hire a room/apartment within a hotel only to find the bedroom is private but the rest of the living areas are shared with others or you're in an annexe.
We always stay at the Ca' Dogaressa on the Canale di Cannaregio. It's a 3* hotel, clean, Venetian styled rooms, breakfast by the canal on warm days and very central. Don't think you have to stay right next to Piazza San Marco to get the feel of Venice. You will likely regret it due to the sheer numbers of people passing each day.
Venice Local Experts
If you would like a personal, local guide while you’re staying, try downloading the excellent app ‘Prontopia’ They can help you with personalised guided tours, shopping trips, help you get to and from the airport or your hotel and much more.
Credit: Ca’ Dogaressa.
How to attend events at Venice Carnival and when is it taking place in 2020
Each year a programme of both public and private events is set up throughout the two week period of the Carnevale.
In 2020 the Venice Carnival will run from 8th - 25th February. You do not need to visit for all of this time, in fact, you might find it too much as it's quite an assault on the senses! I think a long weekend or 3/4 days is plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere and feel you've been part of it all.
You don't necessarily need to pay to attend an event to wear a costume or see the Carnevale atmosphere. People dress up and head for a passeggiata (a leisurely sometimes barely moving stroll!) throughout the day and night.
Check out our photos below of what you see just hanging around Piazza San Marco. If you don't like dressing up don't worry! We dressed up just for our events, plenty of people (who aren't attending an event) don't dress up at all. One evening we were the only costumed couple in a restaurant!
If you would like to attend a private event, these vary in price and structure. We attended two during our stay and one was a costumed event at the San Clemente Palace Kempinski (check it out, serious honeymoon inspiration!). It was for a few hours and included in the €30pp cost was aperitif drinks and canapés, in a stunning setting which you were taken to by private boat to the island.
The second event we attended was a concert in an old Venetian Villa. Young classical musicians and singers performed well-known pieces of music and throughout the evening we had two breaks for drinks, Italian hot chocolate and traditional carnival cakes. This cost €40pp.
Obviously prices have increased in the last few years but this company offers walking tours of the city and Burano Island from €26pp and many other types of events from hot chocolate and Fritelle (carnival doughnuts) balls and boat trips. I love the idea of their Venetian Bar Hop where you have drinks and Cicchetti (Venice tapas) in each establishment.
What to wear to Venice Carnival
As mentioned above you can have a costume made but most people don't go this far. The more costly and more exclusive the event obviously the more authentic a costume you will be expected to wear.
We bought costumes, wigs and masks before we left London from fancy dress shops but actually I wouldn't do this again. Most people that attend the type of events mentioned above wear just a mask and cape. There are street stalls everywhere selling great masks. They also have special capes you can buy that billow and cover your clothes so you literally wear a dark dress or trousers underneath and then wear your mask and cape on top. These cost approximately €20 for a cape and masks around €5-15 depending on how elaborate a mask you choose.
Remember for packing purposes it's February. Venice is cold and often floods so think about this!
The Husband and I , on our way to an event.
Where to eat in Venice
If you're not too full from your hotel breakfast and events nibbles, Venice is a gastronomic haven.
If you eat in Piazza San Marco it will cost you around €50 for a couple of soft drinks and a panino (sandwich). You might want to do this once just to give it a try and watch the world go by. However, I would highly recommend getting lost down a side street. What looks like a dead-end usually opens up into a hidden piazza with delicious food at a much better price.
Also, look for 'Osteria' instead of 'Ristorante'. A ristorante is more formal and costly. The Osteria tend to focus on the wine but also serve lovely side dishes of food and great cheeses. You won't go hungry!
Venetian specialities
Baccala' - Dried, salted cod. Tastes more amazing than it sounds!
Galani /Chiacchiere /Angel wings - Carnevale sweet pastries covered in icing sugar.
Fritelle - Carnevale little doughnut type balls with different fillings such as cream.
Galani Festival Treats. Credit: GreatItalianChefs.
Can children visit Venice Carnival
You can absolutely take children to Venice Carnival. Things to be aware of are:
It's not the best place for a buggy. Lots of the bridges have steps.
Carnival is the busiest time of year. In some areas, you will struggle to keep an eye on them and they may find it overwhelming.
Children who can walk a good distance independently or babies who can be in a carrier are the best age.
You will be welcome everywhere! It's no secret that Italians love children. You can take them out to dinner with you. No one will wonder why you're out at night with a baby or care that you're breastfeeding. The mother-child relationship overrides all others here.
If you would like to find childcare or Venice inspired activities for the children while you sightsee check out Family Travel Italy the perfect all-round provider of Italian educational activities.
I hope you find this useful and get inspired to take a trip!
It will be memorable! And magical!
If you’re looking for guidebooks for your trip,
Lonely Planet have 45% OFF theirs at the moment! Don’t miss this great offer.
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